June 25 - Bioparco, Roman Baths & dinner in a wine store

Jack ran the Appian Way this morning.   It was one of the earliest and most strategically important roads of the ancient republic and is known as "the queen of the long roads".  He took a taxi to the spot where the Appian Way is closed to vehicular traffic and then ran the whole way to the end.  He is working up to the goal of running all 7 of the hills upon which Rome is built.  We have 5 days left in Rome so he'd better get cracking.  Good thing he's been carbo-loading every single day!

Once we were all organized, we set off for Borguese Gardens again.  This time to visit a playground and the Zoo - aka the Bioparco.  We took the commuter train again - a fun way for the kids to experience local roman life!  So many smokers - so few tourists!! The gardens (as is true of most of Rome) are poorly sign posted so getting from A - B is rarely direct or expeditious.  On one of our detours, we stumbled upon a fountain with a large, shallow basin.  There was a girl of about 12 dipping her feet in the water as her father looked on.  We've read that the fountains in Rome are strictly off limits but our girls saw this as a loop-hole and made a run for it.  Once we were in, at least another 15 kids joined.  I overheard the instigator and her father talking as she was drying off and they were tourists - not locals.   I'm sure that activity would not have been sanctioned by the Carabinieri but it sure was a fun way to cool off in the heat!      It was a godsend too because the main attraction - the zoo - proved to be fairly lackluster.  We made the best of it for sure but we are a bit spoiled for zoos and aquariums in the U.S.  

Upon arrival home, we suffered one of the most epic 3-girl meltdowns we've ever experienced!  We're noticing that the wear and tear on the girls is building and building throughout the day and then erupting at around 5:00.  Today, the trigger was access to a new and hotly anticipated iPad game.  Three girls but only two iPads is a disaster in the making.  We left for date night with one deeply wounded daughter claiming favoritism as she was forced to wait her turn.  Her meltdown was remarkable in both magnitude and duration!  This situation is unlikely to have triggered this level-3 response under normal circumstances.  The cracks are beginning to show!  It's certainly not surprising.  I'm tired; they must be exhausted.  That said, they're not downing a bottle of Vermentino every night - I'm doing everything that they're doing but with a hangover!  

Jack and I went back to the modern Roman bath called Acquamadre, but this time, with a reservation.  Speaking of reservations, Jack was not excited about the whole prospect but ... when in Rome ...!  It was a delightful experience with steam rooms and cool pools and scrubbing with "black soap" (which turned out to be very thick olive oil).  The process was not expedient but the Italians have a refreshingly unhurried way of life that is a very good exercise in slowing down for us go-go North Americans!  If you come to Rome for 3-4 days and stay close to the sites, you're not really forced to conform to the local's schedule.  One of the benefits of staying a bit longer, is that we are able to give the girls a little taste of regular life here.  It would probably take me a lifetime to let go of my type-a fixation on efficiency and instant gratification and to settle in here. 

 We're also so used to ease and comfort and we're finding the beds hard, the pillows flat, the A/C under powered, the toilet paper rough, the toilet seats missing ... !  This serves as another good reminder for us and our girls that fun can be had and life can be fabulous without all the comforts we so thoroughly take for granted!